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05091aam a2200565 i 4500 001 BA557FB2586511EA978CCE3397128E48 003 SILO 005 20200226010029 008 190607s2019 nyua bc 001 0 eng 010 $a 2019023995 020 $a 0300247982 020 $a 9780300247985 035 $a (OCoLC)1104219024 040 $a DLC $b eng $e rda $c DLC $d OCLCO $d BDX $d OCLCF $d YDX $d CHVBK $d OCLCO $d YHM $d KSU $d SILO 042 $a pcc 043 $a e-fr--- 050 00 $a TT504.6.F7 $b F743 2019 082 00 $a 746.9/20944 $2 23 245 00 $a French fashion, women & the First World War / $c Maude Bass-Krueger & Sophie Kurkdjian, editors ; [contributions by] Maude Bass-Krueger [and 7 others]. 264 1 $a New York : $b Bard Graduate Center, $c [2019] 300 $a 520 pages : $b illustrations (some color) ; $c 21 cm 500 $a "This book is published in conjunction with the exhibition French Fashion, Women, and the First World War, held at the Bard Graduate Center Gallery from September 5, 2019-January 5, 2020." 520 $a "An unprecedented examination of the impact of fashion on society in France throughout the Great War. This fascinating exploration of French women's fashion during World War I is the first in-depth consideration of the role that fashion played in the upheaval of French society between 1914 and 1918. As the fashion industry-the second largest industry in the country-mobilized to help the war effort, Parisian couture houses introduced new styles, aggressively disseminated information through magazines, and strengthened their propaganda efforts overseas. Women of all social classes adapted their garments to the wartime lifestyle, and practicality was increasingly introduced in the form of pockets and "sportswear" textiles like jersey. While women were heralded for contributing to the war effort, the clothes they wore while doing so often provoked debates, particularly when their attire was seen as too masculine or militaristic. With focused studies of wartime garments such as skirt suits, nurse's uniforms, work overalls, and mourning clothes, this volume brings to life the passionate debates that roiled the French fashion industry and reveals the extent to which fashion was a hotly contested topic and a barometer for social tensions throughout this tumultuous era. Maude Bass-Krueger is postdoctoral fellow at the Center for the Arts in Society at Leiden University. Sophie Kurkdjian is a research fellow at l'Institut d'histoire du temps present (IHTP-CNRS)"-- $c Provided by publisher. 504 $a Includes bibliographical references (pages 512-517) and index. 505 0 $a French women and the First World War / Margaret H. Darrow -- Nurses' uniforms / Johanne Berlemont & AnaiÂs Raynaud -- "Needles en avant!": the militarization of women's sewing and knitting during the First World War in France, Great Britain, and America / Susan R. Grayzel -- Fashion, gender, and anxiety / Maude Bass-Krueger -- Mourning / Maude Bass-Krueger -- Photographing the working woman: the Excelsior archives at Roger-Viollet / Sophie Kurkdjian -- Overalls / Jeremie Brucker -- The wartime fashion industry / Maude Bass-Krueger -- The evolution of the fashionable silhouette, 1911-19 / Maude Bass-Krueger -- Selected designs registered for copyright, 1917-19 / Maude Bass-Krueger -- Jean Paquin, Jeanne Lanvin, Jenny, and Gabrielle Chanel, 1914-18 / Sophie Kurkdjian -- The costume tailleur / Michel Majer -- Restructuring French couture, 1914-18 / Sophie Kurkdjian -- "Copying is stealing!": the fashion press and counterfeiting / Sophie Kurkdjian -- The crisis of 1917: "national fashion" and American textile restrictions / Maude Bass-Krueger -- Midinettes on strike / Maude Bass-Krueger -- Returning to the gender question / Maude Bass-Krueger & Sophie Kurkdjian. 611 27 $a World War (1914-1918) $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01180746 650 0 $a Fashion $z France $x History $y 20th century. 650 0 $a Women's clothing $z France $x History $y 20th century. 650 0 $a World War, 1914-1918 $x Social aspects $z France. 650 0 $a Women $z France $x Social conditions $y 20th century. 650 7 $a Fashion. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst00921600 650 7 $a Social aspects. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01354981 650 7 $a Women $x Social conditions. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01176947 650 7 $a Women's clothing. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01178707 651 7 $a France. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01204289 650 7 $a Bekleidungsindustrie $2 gnd 650 7 $a Frau $2 gnd 650 7 $a Mode $2 gnd 650 7 $a Soziale Stellung $2 gnd 650 7 $a Weltkrieg $g 1914-1918 $2 gnd 651 7 $a Frankreich $2 gnd 648 7 $a 1900-1999 $2 fast 655 7 $a History. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01411628 700 1 $a Bass-Krueger, Maude, $d 1985- $e contributor. $e contributor. 700 1 $a Kurkdjian, Sophie, $e contributor. $e contributor. 710 2 $a Bard Graduate Center Gallery, $e host institution. $e host institution. 941 $a 2 952 $l OVUX522 $d 20231019014216.0 952 $l USUX851 $d 20220602021127.0 956 $a http://locator.silo.lib.ia.us/search.cgi?index_0=id&term_0=BA557FB2586511EA978CCE3397128E48Initiate Another SILO Locator Search