Introduction: The tragedy of exile -- Blessings from Beijing -- Crushing little Lhasa -- The horse man from Purang -- To kill a goose, cut off its head -- The Walmart of little Lhasa -- Beady eyes and a dead lama -- The politics of rebirth -- Pala and the "foreign" plumber -- A fiery split -- Kingfisher strong -- Potshots at Phuntsokling -- Moving on, moving out -- One last walk with Pala.
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