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04803aam a2200337 i 4500 001 807B7048D50911ED809EF8C350ECA4DB 003 SILO 005 20230407010025 008 220203t20222021nyuaf b 001 0 eng d 020 $a 1501180088 020 $a 9781501180088 035 $a (OCoLC)1294939244 040 $a NJM $b eng $e rda $c NJM $d YDX $d BDX $d IVV $d ZGX $d OCLCO $d OCLCF $d LIV $d MNX $d YDD $d JIN $d SILO 050 4 $a GT575 $b .F67 2022 050 4 $a GT525 $b .F67 2022 082 4 $a 306 100 1 $a Ford, Richard T. $q (Richard Thompson) 245 10 $a Dress codes : $b how the laws of fashion made history / $c Richard Thompson Ford. 250 $a First Simon & Schuster trade paperback edition. 264 1 $a New York : $b Simon & Schuster Paperbacks, $c 2022. 300 $a xiii, 443 pages, 16 unnumbered pages of plates : $b illustrations (some color) ; $c 22 cm 504 $a Includes bibliographical references and index. 505 0 $a Historical milestones and important dress codes -- Part one: Status symbols. Encoding status: concerning the excessive display of trunk hose, crowns, ruffled collars, velvet and crimson silk -- Self-fashioning: regarding togas, gowns, robes, and tailored clothing -- Signs of faith: on the matter of dresses with indulgently long trains, earrings and other vanities, and on the habits of women religious--inspired by Christian Dior -- Sex symbols: on the subject of plate armor and associated undergarments, masks, and costumes -- Part two: from opulence to elegance. The great masculine renunciation: on the frock coat, tartan, and kilt, civilian uniforms, and powdered wigs, both large and modest -- Style and status: the importance of the well-dressed man's basic black suit and the elegant woman's eight daily toilettes; the prevalence of silk and velvet waistcoats and the art of the perfectly tied cravat -- Sex and simplicity: the merits of tailored coats, whaleboned corsets, full skirts and petticoats, and neoclassical gowns -- The "rational dress" movement: the inconveniences of bloomers, tight-laced corsets, starched collared shirts, and suits with short trousers -- Flapper feminism: the scandal of drop-waisted shifts, bobbed hair, cupid's bow lips, dancing flats, Bakelite earrings, and the Symington side lacer -- Part three: Power dressing. Slaves to fashion? The allure and danger of dressing above one's condition in pumps with silver buckles, a hat cocked in the macaroni fashion, or a Jack Johnson plaid suit -- From rags to resistance: seen on the scene: Zoot suits, cotillion gowns, pressed hair, and Sunday best; afros and overalls, dashikis, black turtlenecks, and black leather coats -- Sagging and subordination: represent the race! Don't wear sagging pants, gang colors, hoodie sweatshirts, or decorative orthodontic devices (aka Grillz) -- Part four: Politics and personality. How to dress like a woman: Your personal best: teased, curled, or styled hair; lipstick, foundation, eyeliner, blush, bunny ears, and satin maillot, high heels. Overdoing it: bared clavicles, yoga pants, miniskirts, "smart" jeans. In re. ladies in the law: skirts, nylons, makeup, nothing low-cut, a feminized morning suit -- Recoding gender: clothing not belonging to your sex: prom night tuxedoes, blue (or pink) for boys, pink (or blue) for girls, miniskirts, tutus, and tailored suits -- Piercing the veil: Outlawed as indecent or condemned as sacrilegious: headscarves, burkas, burkinis, bikinis, sexy sheitels, hip hijabs, and Covergirl makeup -- Part five: retailored expectations. Merit badges: appropriate for the workplace: red-soled Louboutins, a 21 Club tie, a blue blazer, the preppy look, red sneakers, a Patagonia vest, a gray or black T-shirt. Inappropriate: designer dresses, high heels, suits -- Artifice and appropriation: outfits for cultural tourism: bleached blonde hair, dreadlocks, hoop earrings, a cheongsam, a pink polo, an abacost, European luxury tailoring -- Conclusion: decoding dress codes -- Epilogue: dress codes stripped bare 520 $a In Dress Codes, law professor and cultural critic Richard Thompson Ford presents a "deeply informative and entertaining" (The New York Times Book Review) history of the laws of fashion from the middle ages to the present day, a walk down history's red carpet to uncover and examine the canons, mores, and customs of clothing--rules that we often take for granted. After reading Dress Codes, you'll never think of fashion as superficial again--and getting dressed will never be the same. 650 8 $a Clothing and dress $x History. $x History. 650 8 $a Fashion $x History. 650 8 $a Clothing and dress $x History. $x History. 941 $a 1 952 $l GUPF501 $d 20230407010336.0 956 $a http://locator.silo.lib.ia.us/search.cgi?index_0=id&term_0=807B7048D50911ED809EF8C350ECA4DB 994 $a C0 $b JINInitiate Another SILO Locator Search