"Published in conjunction with the exhibition Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen, organized by Bard Graduate Center and the Textilmuseum St. Gallen, and held at Bard Graduate Center Gallery from September 16, 2022, to January 1, 2023." "A previous iteration of Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen was titled Lace and Status: The Collection of Historical Lace in the Textilmuseum St. Gallen. It was curated by Barbara Karl and was on display at the Textilmuseum St. Gallen from October 26, 2018, to February 10, 2019." Includes bibliographical references (pages 395-404) and index.
Contents:
Glossary / compiled by Kenna Libes. 16. Introduction : threads of power / Emma Cormack and Michele Majer -- The emergence of lace in early modern Europe. 1. Lace and status : luxury, power, and control in early modernity / Barbara Karl ; 2. Putting a name to a lace : fashion, fame, and the production of printed textile pattern books / Femke Speelberg ; 3. "Monstrous ruffs" and elegant trimmings : lace and lacemaking in early modern Italy / Paula Hohti ; 4. Antwerp, a center of lacemaking and lace dealing, 1550-1750 / Frieda Sorber -- Fashion and lace in Spain and the Americas, 1500-1800. 5. The triumph of lace : Spanish portraiture in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries / Amalia Descalzo Lorenzo ; 6. "A desire of being distinguished by an elegant dress is universal" : clothing, status, and convenience in eighteenth-century Spanish America / Mariselle Meléndez ; 7. "A prodigious excess" : lace in New Spain and Peru, ca. 1600-1800 / James Middleton ; 8. "Covered in much fine lace" : dress in the viceroyalty of New Granada / Laura Beltrán-Rubio -- The dominance of France, 1660-1790. 9. Lace, an economic factor in France during the reign of Louis XIV / Denis Bruna ; 10. Lace à la mode in France, ca. 1690-1790 / Lesley Ellis Miller -- Mechanization and revivalism in the lace industries, 1800-1925. 11. Fashion and the lace industries in France, Belgium, and England, 1800-1900 / Emma Cormack and Michele Majer ; 12. Ahead of the curve : A. Blackborne & Co. and the late nineteenth-century British lace industry / Annabel Bonnin Talbot ; 13. Italy to New York : making historic textiles modern at the Scuola d'Industrie Italiane / Emily Zilber ; 14. A source of inspiration : the Leopold Iklé collection in St. Gallen / Anne Wanner-JeanRichard and Ilona Kos -- Innovations in lace, 1900 to today. 15. Fashion and lace since 1900 / Catherine Örmen ; 16. Lace in St. Gallen today : tradition and innovation at Forster Rohner and Jakob Schlaepfer / Introduction by Annina Dosch ; Interview with Tobias Forster, Martin Leuthold, and Hans Schreiber -- Illustrated checklist of the exhibition -- Glossary / compiled by Kenna Libes.
Summary:
"Threads of Power: Lace from the Textilmuseum St. Gallen' offers a look at one of the world's finest collections of historical lace. It traces the development of European lace from its emergence in the sixteenth century to the present, elucidating its important role in fashion. The book explores the longstanding connections between lace and status, addressing styles in lace worn at royal courts, including Habsburg Spain and Bourbon France, as well as lace worn by the elite ruling classes and Indigenous peoples in the Spanish Americas. Featuring new research, the publication covers a range of topics related to lace production, lace in fashion and portraiture, lace revivals, the mechanization of the lace industries in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, and contemporary innovations in lace. With a focus on lace techniques, women lace makers, and lace as a signifier of wealth and power, this richly illustrated book includes wide-ranging contributions by curators and experts from major museums and academic institutions"-- Provided by publisher.
This resource is supported by the Institute of Museum and Library Services under the provisions of the Library Services and Technology Act as administered by State Library of Iowa.