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05268aam a2200529 i 4500 001 3E16ADE6C17411E49647BAD4DAD10320 003 SILO 005 20150303010228 008 131211s2014 mnuaf b s000 0 eng 010 $a 2013040906 020 $a 0816687471 (paperback : acid-free paper) 020 $a 9780816687473 (paperback : acid-free paper) 020 $a 0816687463 (hardback : acid-free paper) 020 $a 9780816687466 (hardback : acid-free paper) 035 $a (OCoLC)863196289 040 $a DLC $b eng $e rda $c DLC $d YDX $d BTCTA $d YDXCP $d BDX $d UKMGB $d OCLCF $d ZCU $d STF $d PUL $d IAD $d CDX $d SILO 042 $a pcc 050 00 $a PN56.C684 $b F45 2014 082 00 $a 809/.933564 $2 23 084 $a BUS016000 $a DES005000 $a BUS016000 $2 bisacsh 245 00 $a Fashioning the Nineteenth Century / $c Cristina Giorcelli and Paula Rabinowitz, editors. 264 1 $a Minneapolis : $b University of Minnesota Press, $c [2014] 300 $a xxiii, 289 pages, 4 unnumbered pages of color plates : $b illustrations (some color) ; $c 21 cm. 490 1 $a Habits of being ; $v 3 520 $a " In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion--once the province of the well-to-do--began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes--and back. The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles. Whether considering girls' school uniforms in provincial Italy, widows' mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie's varying dress in Kate Chopin's eponymous story, or the language of clothing in Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now understand to be the imperatives of fashion. Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnes Derail-Imbert, EÌcole Normale Superieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Universite of Paris, Ouest Nanterre La Defense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan. "-- $c Provided by publisher. 504 $a Includes bibliographical references. 505 00 $t Coda: Seen and Obscene / $t Introduction: Fashioning a Century / $g 13. $g 1. $t Psychoanalytic Views of Cross-Dressing and Transvestism / $r Paula Rabinowitz. $g 2. $t Our Job Is to Create Beauty: A Personal Memoir of La Perla / $r Anna Masotti -- $g 3. $t Modernity Clothing: Birthing the Modern Atlantic/Birthing the Modern Republic / $r Carroll Smith-Rosenberg -- $g 4. $t Garment of the Unseen: The Philosophy of Clothes in Carlyle and Emerson / $r Giuseppe Nori -- $g 5. $t An Emblem of All the Rest: Wearing the Widow's Cap in Victorian Literature / $r Dagni Bredesen -- $g 6. $t Clothing the Marmorean Flock: Sartorial Historicism and The Marble Faun / $r Bruno Monfort -- $g 7. $t Florence / $r Beryl Korot -- $g 8. $t Accessories to the Crime in What Maisie Knew / $r Clair Hughes -- $g 9. $t Costume and Form: D'Annunzio and Mutable Appearances / $r Marta Savini -- $g 10. $t Redefining American Womanhood: Shawls Nineteenth-Century Literature / $r Anna Scacchi -- $g 11. $t A Lovely Little Coffee-Colored Dress: Education, Female Identity, and Dress in late Nineteenth-Century Italy / $r Carmela Covato -- $g 12. $t Gender and Power: Dressing "Charlie" / $r Cristina Giorcelli -- $g 13. $t Imaginative Habits: Fantasies of Undressing in The Ambassadors / $r AgneÌs Derail-Imbert -- $t Coda: Seen and Obscene / $r Paula Rabinowitz. 650 0 $a Clothing and dress in literature. 650 0 $a Fashion in literature. 650 0 $a Literature and society $x History $y 19th century. 650 0 $a Clothing and dress $x Social aspects. 650 0 $a Fashion $x Social aspects. 650 7 $a Clothing and dress in literature. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01199303 650 7 $a Clothing and dress $x Social aspects. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst00864722 650 7 $a Fashion in literature. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst00921642 650 7 $a Fashion $x Social aspects. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst00921619 650 7 $a Literature and society. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01000096 648 7 $a 1800 - 1899 $2 fast 655 7 $a History. $2 fast $0 (OCoLC)fst01411628 700 1 $a Giorcelli, Cristina, $e editor. 700 1 $a Rabinowitz, Paula, $e editor. 830 0 $a Habits of being ; $v 3. 941 $a 3 952 $l USUX851 $d 20201203013712.0 952 $l OVUX522 $d 20180102054028.0 952 $l UQAX771 $d 20150619015334.0 956 $a http://locator.silo.lib.ia.us/search.cgi?index_0=id&term_0=3E16ADE6C17411E49647BAD4DAD10320Initiate Another SILO Locator Search