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Title:
Maker & muse : women and early twentieth century art jewelry / edited by Elyse Zorn Karlin ; foreword by Richard H. Driehaus ; essays by Sharon S. Darling, Jeannine Falino, Elyse Zorn Karlin, Yvonne J. Markowitz and Emily Banis Stoehrer, Janis Staggs ; principal photography by John A. Faier.
Publisher:
The Monacelli Press,
Copyright Date:
2015
Description:
256 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm
Subject:
Jewelry--History--19th century.
Jewelry--History--20th century.
Art metal-work--History--19th century.
Art metal-work--History--20th century.
Women jewelers.
ANTIQUES & COLLECTIBLES / Jewelry.
DESIGN / Fashion.
ART / Collections, Catalogs, Exhibitions / General.
Art metal-work.
Jewelry.
Women jewelers.
1800 - 1999
History.
Other Authors:
Karlin, Elyse Zorn, editor.
Notes:
"This publication accompanies the exhibition Maker & Muse : Women and Twentieth Century Art Jewelry held at The Richard H. Driehaus Museum February 14, 2015-January 3, 2016"--Colophon. Includes bibliographical references and index.
Contents:
Crafting a Collection: Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry / Richard H. Driehaus -- Maker and Muse : Women and Art Jewelry 1890-1920 / Elyse Zorn Karlin -- With A Hammer In Her Hand : Women and the British Arts and Crafts Movement / Elyse Zorn Karlin -- Metamorphosis : The Female Figure in Art Nouveau / Yvonne J. Markowitz and Emily Banis Stoehrer -- American Art Jewelry: Louis Comfort Tiffany / Jeannine Falino -- Jewelry as Art : Germany and Austria in the Early Twentieth Century / Janis Staggs -- Beautiful, Useful, and Enduring : Chicago Arts and Crafts Jewelry / Sharon S. Darling.
Summary:
"Women were not only the intended wearers of art jewelry during the early twentieth century, but also an essential part of its creation. Their work--boldly artistic, exquisitely detailed, hand wrought, and inspired by nature--is now widely sought after by collectors and museums alike. From the world's first independent female jewelry makers, to the woman as artistic motif, this jewelry reflected rapid changes in definitions of femininity and social norms. Essays by noted scholars explore five different areas of jewelry design and fabrication, and discuss the important female figures and historic social milieu associated with these movements--from the suffragists and the Rational Dress Society in England; to the Wiener Werkstätte and Gustav Klimt; and the Art Nouveau masters René Lalique and Alphonse Mucha, who depicted otherworldly women in jewelry for equally fascinating patrons like Sarah Bernhardt. The essays are illustrated by historic photographs and decorative arts of the period as well as the extraordinary pieces themselves: hair combs, bracelets, brooches, and tiaras executed in moonstones, translucent horn, enamel, opals, aquamarines, and much more. As Driehaus writes in his introduction to Maker & Muse, 'Essential as these elements are, the metal and gemstones of a necklace--or a brooch or a bracelet--are like a canvas. It is the designer who evokes true greatness, beauty, and value from them. Neither monumental nor mass-produced, the object contains a memory of a particular artist's skilled hand.'"
ISBN:
1580934048
9781580934046
OCLC:
(OCoLC)890107171
LCCN:
2014034690
Locations:
OVUX522 -- University of Iowa Libraries (Iowa City)

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