Tailored for freedom : the artistic dress around 1900 in fashion, art, and society / edited by Ina Ewers-Schultz and Magdalena Holzhey ; with essays by Friederike Berger, Christian Brandstätter, Burcu Dogramaci, Ina Ewers-Schultz, Isa Fleischmann-Heck, Inga Ganzer, Juliane Hahn, Christiane Heiser, Magdalena Holzhey, Antje Neumann, Patricia Ober, Thorsten Scheer, and Karin Thönnissen.
Publisher:
Kunstmuseen Krefeld ;
Copyright Date:
2018
Description:
288 pages : illustrations (some color), portraits ; 29 cm
Published to accompany an exhibition held at Kunstmuseen Krefeld, Kaiser Wilhelm Museum, Krefeld, Germany, 12th October 2018-24th February 2019. Includes bibliographical references (pages 258-273).
Contents:
Introduction: Julian Hahn. Introduction: Skirt and rib: bodies in the gaze / Ina Ewers-Schultz and Magdalena Holzhey -- The dress as a work of art. -- The dress as a work of art, beauty as a weapon, and the concept of the Gesamtkunstwerk: on a new understanding of art around 1900 / Ina Ewers-Schultz -- Closely tied: the Krefeld Museum director Friedrich Deneken and his European network / Inga Ganzer -- "The fairies have strewn flowers along the way": the textile designer and Gesamtkünstler Henry van de Velde and his Weimar circle / Antje Neumann -- "The highest intelligence in the freest body!": modern dance as a symbiosis of body and costume / Ina Ewers-Schultz -- New shapes and decors. -- Making an appearance: the fashion frenzy and "new style" in women's clothing around 1900 / Isa Fleischmann-Heck -- "The artistic elevation of women's dress": Krefeld 1900 and its consequences / Magdalena Holzhey -- "A miracle how preciously the people here understand their work in silk": Johan Thorn Prikker as a textile artist: from Batik to Krefeld artists' silk / Christiane Heiser -- Kimono & Co.: the influence of Japan as well as historical and regional garments on fashion around 1900 / Isa Fleischmann-Heck -- Ambivalent gender roles. -- "Since not all women, even if they have taste, are able to invent suitable ornaments": women and their clothes between decoration and emancipation / Magdalena Holzhey -- "The essential thing is the individual adaptation to the wearer": Anna Muthesius's Das Eigenkleid der Frau / Ina Ewers-Schultz -- "Antineutral clothing for men": the artistic reform of men's wear / Ina Ewers-Schultz -- The body under the clothes: nude photography of women in the context of clothing reform / Patricia Ober -- Staging and communication. -- Posing for a new world: artistic dresses and how they were communicated / Burcu Dogramaci -- The Wiener Werkstätte and the fashion reform / Christian Brandstätter -- "The art of clothing oneself must be popularized": the artistic reform dress as an ideal, an aesthetic, and consumer culture / Friederike Berger -- The Omega Workshops: painting in space / Karin Thönnissen -- Looking back and ahead. -- "Deeds not words": on the political iconography of women's dress / Thorsten Scheer -- Skirt and rib: bodies in the gaze / Julian Hahn.
Summary:
Though often seen today as a mere expression of individuality, fashion around 1900 became synonymous with the physical and social emancipation of women. Reform movements at the turn of the century strove to achieve a unity of art and life, inspiring artists to experiment with how the design of women's dresses could do more than decorate, cover, and constrict. The clothing designs of famous artists like Heinrich Vogeler, Henry van de Velde, Josef Hoffmann, and Sonia Delaunay revealed both a new aesthetic and a new attitude to the role of women. Their loose forms, flowing fabrics, bold colors, and geometric and floral patterns liberated wearers from the social convention of decades past.
This resource is supported by the Institute of Museum and Library Services under the provisions of the Library Services and Technology Act as administered by State Library of Iowa.