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03241aam a22003738i 4500 001 9640936A152711E3AA706A77DAD10320 003 SILO 005 20130904010050 008 120912s2013 ctua b 001 0 eng 010 $a 2012028814 020 $a 0300189532 (alk. paper) 020 $a 9780300189537 (alk. paper) 035 $a (OCoLC)809925932 040 $a DLC $b eng $e rda $c DLC $d OCLCO $d YDXCP $d BTCTA $d ERASA $d BDX $d UKMGB $d OCLCQ $d UVV $d SILO 042 $a pcc 043 $a n-us--- $a n-us--- 050 00 $a TT502 $b .E824 2013 082 00 $a 746.9/20944 $2 23 100 1 $a Evans, Caroline, $d 1954- 245 14 $a The mechanical smile : $b modernism and the first fashion shows in France and America 1900-1929 / $c Caroline Evans. 264 1 $a New Haven : $b Yale University Press, $c 2013. 300 $a 331 pages : $b illustrations (some color) ; $c 29 cm. 504 $a Includes bibliographical references (p. 306-314) and index. 505 0 $a Introduction -- Prehistory: nineteenth century fashion modelling -- Paris 1900-1914: the rationalization of the body -- 1900-1914: French fashion on the world stage -- America 1900-1917: show business -- 1914-1919: wartime Paris and the nationalization of the body -- 1919-1929: fashion in motion -- Architecture: factories of elegance -- Audiences: the commerce of the look -- Objects: industrial smiles -- Prolepsis: future bodies -- Movement: the mannequin walk -- Flow: the mannequin pose -- Postscript: balancing the books: between the legacy of the fashion show and the inheritance of the mannequin. 520 $a In the early 20th century, the desire to see clothing in motion flourished on both sides of the Atlantic: models tangoed, slithered, swaggered, and undulated before customers in couture houses and department stores. The Mechanical Smile traces the history of the earliest fashion shows in France and the United States from their origins in the 1880s to 1929, situating them in the context of modernism and the rationalization of the body. Fashion shows came into being concurrently with film, and this book explores the connections between fashion and early cinema, which arguably functioned as what Walter Benjamin called "new velocities"--forces that altered the rhythms of modern life. Using significant new archival evidence, The Mechanical Smile shows how so-called "mannequin parades" employed the visual language of modernism to translate business and management methods into visual seduction. Caroline Evans, a leading fashion historian, argues for an expanded definition of modernism as both gestural and performative, drawing on literary and performance theory rather than relying on art and design history. The fashion show, Evans posits, is a singular nodal point where the disparate histories of commerce, modernism, gender, and the body converge. 650 0 $a Fashion shows $z France $x History. 650 0 $a Fashion shows $z United States $x History. 650 0 $a Modernism (Aesthetics) $z France. 650 0 $a Modernism (Aesthetics) $z United States. 650 0 $a Models (Persons) 941 $a 2 952 $l USUX851 $d 20211005013849.0 952 $l OVUX522 $d 20191211030843.0 956 $a http://locator.silo.lib.ia.us/search.cgi?index_0=id&term_0=9640936A152711E3AA706A77DAD10320Initiate Another SILO Locator Search